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Australia And The Islands Of The Sea Author: Larkin, Dunton
Link: The Australian Confederation
Introduction
Announcement.
It is now conceded by all educators that school instruction should be supplemented by reading matter suitable for use by the pupil both in the school and in the home. Whoever looks for such reading, however, must be struck at first with the abundance of what is offered to schools and parents, and then with its lack of systematic arrangement, and its consequent ill adaptation to the needs of young people.
It is for the purpose of supplying this defect, that the publishers have decided to issue a series of volumes, under the general title of the Young Folks' Library For School and Home.
These books are intended to meet the needs of all children and youth of school age; from those who have just mastered their first primer, to those who are about to finish the high school course. Some of the volumes will supplement the ordinary school readers, as a means of teaching reading; some will reenforce the instruction in geography, history, biography, and natural science; while others will be specially designed to cultivate a taste for good literature. All will serve to develop power in the use of the mother tongue.
The matter for the various volumes will be so carefully selected and so judiciously graded, that the various volumes will be adapted to the needs and capacities of all for whom they are designed; while their literary merit, it is hoped, will be sufficient to make them deserve a place upon the shelves of any well selected collection of juvenile works.
Each volume of the Young Folks' Library will be prepared by some one of our ablest writers for young people, and all will be carefully edited by Larkin Dunton, LL. D., Head Master of the Boston Normal School.
The publishers intend to make this Library at once attractive and instructive; they therefore commend these volumes, with confidence, to teachers, parents, and all others who are charged with the duty of directing the education of the young.
Silver, Burdett & Co.
Preface.
Without a knowledge of Australia and the islands of the sea, our idea of the world and its people would be very incomplete. The continent of Australia, with only a century of growth, is one of the marvels of modern times. Its peculiar physical features, its strange flora and stranger fauna, give it a distinction not enjoyed by sister continents. Used at first only as a penal station, it now ranks in civilization and modern improvements with the most progressive countries of the world. Its resources are limitless, and its possibilities boundless. Its people are enterprising and ambitious, but they are sufficiently docile and open-minded to learn valuable lessons from the experience of older civilizations.
All of the important islands and groups of islands have found a place in this book, with the exception of the British Isles and Japan, which have been ably treated in this series in connection with the continents of which they form, politically, such important parts.
It is almost needless to say that the author has availed herself of the records of the most reliable travelers and writers of recent years. Whatever is interesting, instructive, and impressive, she has endeavored to incorporate in this work. In order to prevent a dry detail of dates and figures, pen pictures of the people as they are now, with their homes and their customs, make up a large part of the book.
The subject treated is of rare and fascinating interest; and to those who have always regarded the islands as small and unimportant places on the face of the earth, this book will be a revelation. Even their location is interesting. They are confined to no particular sea. They have the trackless waste of waters for their own, and where they will they break its limitless expanse. Their formation is often peculiar; while frozen river systems, jokuls, hot springs, pitch lakes, luxuriant forests, or other equally distinctive characteristics give to each its own individuality.
Notwithstanding their diversity, each one is, or has been, inhabited by human beings peculiarly adapted to the clime in which they were found. They dressed, and ate, and lived in accordance with their environment. They elicit sympathy, if our own method of living is our only standard of happiness. But, when seen in their native condition, their crude pastimes seem to afford them genuine satisfaction. Attempts to elevate them in the scale of living have been attended no doubt with excellent results; but in nearly all cases the promotion of civilization, as we have it, means ultimately the extinction of the native tribe.
The earnest desire of the author is that a careful perusal of this book shall result in present pleasure and permanent profit to its readers, and in questionings which shall lead some to a deeper investigation of the social, industrial, and political needs of the people who inhabit Australia and the Islands of the Sea.
Chapter II. Melbourne.
Gold made Victoria, and Melbourne owes its rapid growth to the same precious metal. Melbourne stands on Port Philip Bay, near the mouth of the Yarra River. It is the capital of Victoria, and the chief city of Australia, with a population of 450,000.
Having rounded Cape Otway, the southern extremity of Victoria, we soon reach the Heads at the entrance of Port Philip. These are low necks of sandy hillocks guarding the entrance to the bay. On one side is Point Lonsdale, and on the other Point Nepean, upon each of which strong fortifications have been erected. Farther on is the village of Queenscliff, built on a bit of abrupt headland. Cozy dwellings appear nestled down amid well-cultivated hills, and the village church is a pleasing object in the more distant landscape.
But we are rapidly losing sight of land, for Port Philip is a spacious inlet thirty-five miles long by twenty-five broad, and we are sailing straight for its most northern shore. As we near it, the port of Williamstown comes in sight. Its crowded masts indicate that it is full of shipping. On the right is the village of St. Kilda, and farther round is Brighton. Sandridge, lying straight ahead of us, is the landing place of Melbourne. Over the masts of its shipping, our attention is called to a mass of houses in the distance, and we are told that there is the city of Melbourne.
We are soon alongside the large wooden railway pier of Sandridge. We buy our tickets for Melbourne two miles away, and in less than fifteen minutes are safely landed in the largest city in the southern hemisphere.
The scenery around Melbourne is not remarkable, but the internal appearance of the city is magnificent. It is built upon two hills and in the broad valley which separates them, and is laid out on the rectangular plan. The streets are all straight and of great width, and large spaces within the city limits are devoted to public gardens.
Collins and Bourke streets are usually considered to rank first. As we walk down Bourke Street, we pass an imposing structure which, though deserted in the daytime, is crowded in the evening with a richly dressed throng. It is the Royal Theater. Farther up the street we come to the market place, where crowds of people are moving about. Trade seems to be brisk, judging by the way the vegetables, fruit, and meat are changing hands. At the farther end of the street everything is much more quiet. There, in a large open space, stand the Parliament Houses, which were built at a cost of two million dollars.
Standing on the high ground at one end of Collins Street, and looking down through the valley and up the hill on the other side, we obtain a striking view. This street is not less than a mile long. Here and there on each side of it are grand edifices used as bank buildings. On the farther hill we note a white, palatial structure with a richly ornamented facade and tower. This is the Town Hall. The Bourke and Wills monument, erected in memory of two brave men who lost their lives when exploring the interior of the country, stands in the center of the roadway; while, at the very end of the perspective, rises the handsome gray front of the Treasury building.
We must remember, however, that Melbourne is a young city. Less than sixty years ago the aborigines used to hold their savage meetings on the very ground where the University now stands. And so it happens that, as yet, there is no street which is magnificent throughout; for between large imposing structures we sometimes see small, insignificant buildings, that remind us of the earliest days of the city.
There is little that bespeaks extreme poverty, and beggars are unknown. Work is plentiful, and no one can complain of being unable to find something to do. The poorest part of the city is the Chinese quarter. Here the streets are narrower and dirtier than anywhere else, and you may see the yellow-faced Mongolians standing and jabbering at their doors, - a very novel sight.
Melbourne is justly proud of its public institutions. Among these, the Library ranks first. It contains more than sixty thousand volumes, and is free to all the people from ten in the forenoon until ten at night. Here, in the evening, you may see the workingmen in their working dress. As many as five hundred workingmen visit the Library daily. The only requirements are that they shall sign their names on entering, and observe proper behavior while they remain. The Victorian Collection of pictures is in the same building, and the galleries are very attractive.
The Post Office is another splendid building, and one of the most commodious institutions of its kind in the world. The University has hardly attained the success that the Library has had. The building is a modest, quadrangular one, three sides of which have been completed. These contain the lecture rooms, a library, and the residences of the professors. Behind this building stands the Museum, which is open to the public without charge.
But the most attractive part of Melbourne is its seashore, especially in its pretty, rapidly growing suburbs along the shores of Port Philip. St. Kilda is but three miles from the city, and is a favorite resort of the people. Many of them reside here, and go back and forth to their business houses. A fine promenade runs along the beach, and the bathing is unusually good. Large inclosures surrounded by piles are built for the bathers, and above them, raised high on platforms, are commodious dressing rooms. The beach has a sandy bottom, and slopes gently from the shore to any depth of water, affording a fine opportunity for swimmers. They must, however, be careful not to encounter the "cobbler." This creature is like a small octopus. It has legs, or arms, nearly equal in size and very long in proportion to its body. They are used for creeping on the land, swimming in the water, and seizing its prey. If it comes near any one, it will administer a sharp slap, at the same time squirting out a horrid, acrid juice. A thick rash quickly follows this infliction, accompanied by swelling and much pain, and for a while the delights of bathing have to be foregone.
Chapter III. Sydney, Brisbane, Perth, And Adelaide.
Notwithstanding the fact that Melbourne is the phenomenal city of Australia, there are others as worthy of description. These have had as marvelous, if not as rapid, a growth, and have had much to do with the general development of the continent.
One of these is Sydney. It is the capital of New South Wales, and is the oldest city in Australia. It has a population, including its suburbs, of over 408,500. It is a well-built city, with fine, broad streets and imposing public buildings, which, combined with its commanding situation on a splendid harbor, has gained for it the title of "The Queen of the South."
Sydney is situated on Port Jackson, near the thirty-fourth degree of south latitude. The choice of this precise spot for settlement was determined by the circumstance of a stream of fresh water being found there, flowing into a deep inlet, afterward known as Sydney Cove, one of the numerous bays into which Port Jackson is divided.
This last-mentioned body of water forms a magnificent harbor, extending some twenty miles inland. It is completely landlocked, and can be entered only through a narrow passageway between the "Heads," as they are termed. It accommodates vessels of the largest size. Its shores present a succession of picturesque landscapes. The cliffs which form the general outline of the harbor often rise to the height of two hundred and fifty feet. In the intervening spaces the shore consists of terraces and smooth sandy beaches.
There are, perhaps, few places more suitable for the foundation of a great metropolis. The city is situated at a distance of about eight miles from the sea, and the whole circumference of the bay around which it is built forms a series of natural wharfs, where ships of two thousand tons' burden may be moored within a distance of twenty yards of the shore.
Sydney stands near the center, north and south, of the immense coal region of Australia, which extends five hundred miles from north to south, and has a breadth of from eighty to one hundred miles. Large quantities of coal, for colonial use and for export, are mined within one hundred miles of the city. The sandstone rock, upon which the city is built, affords much valuable building material.
Sydney now consists of three distinct districts: First, the Old City, in which are George Street and other streets named after early governors. Here we find the Houses of Parliament, the Treasury buildings, and the Government House with its park and botanic gardens. The Houses of Parliament are rather disappointing in appearance. The Lower House is small, and in its arrangement resembles a music hall. The Government House is situated on a promontory commanding a view of the bay. On one side is Farm Cove, and on the other is Sydney Cove, where the large liners debark their passengers. The Government House is very different from that in Melbourne. It is like an ordinary English country house, and, though comfortable enough, is rather inadequate to meet the present requirements of this growing place. The other important buildings in Sydney are the large and imposing Town Hall, the Museum, and the railway station. There are several theaters, many handsome banks, the Exchange, and a number of elegant private residences.
The second division of Sydney is called Wooloomooloo. This is the fashionable quarter, and abounds in beautiful homes. Further away we come across numerous small watering places dotted about the harbor, the Parramatta, and Botany Bay.
The third division is called North Shore and is reached by steam ferry from Sydney Cove in ten minutes. Beside the city proper, Sydney has extensive suburbs, some of which are called by English names, such as Hyde Park, Victoria Park, and Paddington, while others have been given native names sometimes difficult of pronunciation.
The people of Sydney believe in their own city, and entertain their own opinions about the "vaunted superiority" of Melbourne; and truly there is much to justify their pride. Nature has done much for Sydney. From nearly every point may be seen the blue waters of its winding harbor; and the sunshine, as it lights up varied hues in sea and sky, seems as tender as that of Naples or Athens. The neighborhood of the city is charming. Every nook in the adjacent bay is studded with handsome villas or comfortable cottages. "The walks immediately around the city are unsurpassed for picturesqueness, while the public gardens probably excel any in the world, owing to their combination of sea and land, hill and valley, rock and wood and grassy slopes, with a climate that permits all the beautiful forms of vegetation both of tropical and temperate zones to luxuriate side by side."
The parks are many in number. Among them the most important are the Botanical Gardens, covering thirty-eight acres, exceedingly rich and beautiful; Prince Alfred Park, Belmore Park, and Hyde Park, - the last named an open, treeless plateau near the center of the city. The two largest parks are the Domain, a fine expanse of one hundred and thirty-eight acres on the northeast side of the city, and the Moor, a tract of twenty-five hundred acres southeast of the city.
The educational system of New South Wales consists of primary schools, the grammar school, and the University. By far the most important edifice among public buildings, not only in Sydney, but in the whole of Australia, is the University, which stands on a commanding height, and in the center of a domain of one hundred and fifty acres. The principal facade is five hundred feet long, and is flanked by a great hall at its western end. Lectures are delivered daily during each term on classics, logic, history, chemistry, natural and experimental philosophy, and jurisprudence. The University was erected out of private funds, and has a permanent endowment of five thousand pounds a year from the civil list. Instruction is limited to purely secular teaching.
Brisbane, the capital of Queensland, is situated on a river of the same name, about twenty-five miles from its mouth in Moreton Bay. It is near the twenty-seventh degree of south latitude, and more than five hundred miles north of Sydney. Including its suburbs, the city covers a very large area.
Although the population of the city proper is small, being only twenty-six thousand, yet, including South Brisbane, Rockhampton, and other suburbs within a radius of ten miles, there is a population of over one hundred thousand. The city is well supplied with public buildings. The Houses of the Legislature, still incomplete, have already cost Pounds 100,000. Beside these there are the Government House, the General Post Office, the Museum, Town Hall, and Custom House, beside two theaters, an opera house, several concert halls, and half a dozen fine bank edifices.
There is a noble iron bridge across the Brisbane River, more than one thousand feet long, with two swing openings of sixty and one half feet each, to allow the passage of ships. The actual city, surrounded on three sides by this river, is a well-built town laid out in streets which cross at right angles. Those which run north and south are called by men's names, as William Street and George Street. Those running east and west assume the names of the fairer sex, as Alice Street and Margaret Street, the center and principal one being called Queen Street.
There are several clubs, that known as the Queensland Club being one of the finest in Australia. In the suburbs many forms of sport are indulged in, among which are pony races and dingo hunts.
The people of Brisbane delight in social gatherings and dances, both public and private, and entertainments are in vogue throughout the season. The Queen's birthday is always a great event in Australia, and its celebration in Brisbane is thus described by Mr. Baden-Powell, an English scientific writer:
"It generally starts off with a great school feast. Some thousands of school children assemble in the Domain, and have a great day of it. At a given time the Governor arrives upon the scene to deliver an address, and on mounting a platform is received with solemn cheers; but when on one occasion, I humbly followed him, arrayed in regimental uniform and wearing a bear-skin, roars of laughter from thousands of young throats rose to the skies, and 'the man in the bit hat' was voted quite the most comical part of the show.
"A review of the troops is the next event of the programme, and a really very fine display they make. Then follows a levee at the Government House, all the gentlemen unable to raise uniforms having to appear in evening dress.
"After this the Governor has to attend in a sort of semi-state the great race meeting of the year. Escorted by mounted orderlies, and a detachment of mounted police, he drives up the center of the course a la Prince at Ascot, and is received by the president and stewards of the Turf Club. But before the racing is over a return has to be made to Government House, in order to prepare for a big dinner given to all the principal Government officials. It is a great relief to get this day over."
Perth is the capital of Western Australia, which, of all the Australian colonies, has the most extensive area, being nearly one third of the entire continent. At the same time, it has the smallest population. About forty per cent of the entire population of Western Australia resides in Perth and in villages within twenty miles of the capital city. Perth alone has about 20,000 inhabitants. Freemantle, the port of Perth, twelve miles distant at the mouth of the Swan River, has a population of 9500, and is the second city in size in the colony.
The city of Perth is picturesquely situated on the Swan River, about twelve miles from the sea. It presents a striking appearance, being built on sloping ground above a fine lake-like reach of the river. It is well laid out and beautifully planted. There are a few imposing public buildings, including two cathedrals. The City Hall, containing the Legislative Chambers, was erected recently by convict labor. The principal street is nearly two miles long, and is planted with Cape lilac, a beautiful flowering tree. An excellent macadamized road connects the city with the port of Freemantle; and it is united with all the settled districts of the colony by railway and telegraph.
The country surrounding Perth is rocky and hilly, covered with heather and rough grass, and it has, on the whole, quite a Scotch look. The chief diversion of the ladies is gathering wild flowers, which grow in profusion over the slopes.
Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, and has with its immediate environs a population of 144,000. It was founded in 1837 by Colonel Light, who named it after the wife of King William IV.
Adelaide is situated some seven miles inland on both sides of the Torrens River, and is connected with Port Adelaide by railway. Much intelligent foresight was manifested in laying out the original plan of the survey. Adelaide is built in a regular pattern, the streets running at right angles with one another. One half of the city is the business quarter, and the other is covered by residences. A strip of park land, half a mile wide, separates these two portions. Through the center of this the Torrens flows. Originally this stream was looked upon as a nuisance, as, according to the season of the year, it was either a muddy creek or a flooded flat. Much money and labor were expended upon earthworks to bring it under control, and now a sheet of water, spanned by several bridges, extends for two miles through the city. The sanitary system of the city is of a superior order.
The Mount Lofty range lies a few miles eastward, and in these hills reservoirs have been constructed, which are capable of storing more than a billion gallons of water for the accommodation of the city. Beside being well supplied with local railways, Adelaide is connected with the whole railway system of Australia.
Exactly in the center of the city is Victoria Square. Beside this there are four other squares similar to it, lying toward the four corners of the town. The principal thoroughfare, King William Street, runs through the center, passing through Victoria Square. The chief buildings of the city, some of which are noted for fine architectural design, are situated on this street. Adelaide is a busy place, and boasts an unusual number of churches, a university, three colleges, and a botanical garden which covers one hundred and twenty acres of land.
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